A Delhi day from Old Delhi alleys to Humayun's Tomb at dusk

India's largest mosque, 1656. Climb the south minaret (50 rupees) for a view over the rooftops of Old Delhi. Cover shoulders and knees; head scarves provided at the entrance. Open outside prayer times.

The Mughal imperial seat from 1648 to 1857. A two-hour walk through courtyards, the Diwan-i-Khas (hall of private audience) with its ceiling inlays, the emperor's marble bath. Skip the evening sound-and-light show.

A cycle rickshaw is the only way through the narrow lanes. From the Red Fort gate through Khari Baoli spice market — take a scarf against the dust and pepper. Thirty minutes, negotiate the fare before you start.

A century-old lane of paratha specialists. Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan has been making stuffed paranthas on the same corner since 1872. Order the mixed-vegetable paratha, mango pickle, a lassi.

The red-sandstone tomb of the second Mughal emperor, completed 1570 — the architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal. Walk the outer gardens first, then enter for the symmetrical interior. Late afternoon is the best light.

The Sufi shrine of 14th-century saint Nizamuddin Auliya. Thursday evenings, qawwali singers perform between 18:00 and 19:30 — the same form Amir Khusrau practised on this site seven centuries ago. Remove shoes outside.

The North-West Frontier restaurant behind the Maurya hotel. Dal Bukhara (black dal slow-cooked overnight) and the sikandari raan are the two dishes that launched a thousand imitations. No cutlery; eat with bread.