An Edinburgh day from Leith docks to Stockbridge

A Leith bakery with enormous cakes under glass domes and a strong breakfast menu. Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon, a flat white. Window tables look onto the Water of Leith harbour; the bakery cases up front are worth a slow pass before you order.

The Royal Family's yacht from 1954 to 1997, now a museum moored beside Ocean Terminal. An audio-guided tour through five decks — the State Dining Room, the Queen's simple bedroom, the engine room with its original brass. Two hours.

A classic Leith dockside pub with a proper real-ale bar and a fish-focused restaurant. Cullen skink (smoked haddock chowder), langoustines, a pint of Deuchars 80 shilling. Outdoor tables on the harbour wall in summer.

A three-kilometre path along the river from Leith up to Stockbridge. Passes weirs, old mill buildings, the Dean Gallery sculpture collection by Antony Gormley. An hour at a slow pace; runners and dog walkers for company.

A Georgian neighbourhood on the river with independent bookshops, cheesemongers, and small cafés. Sundays bring the Stockbridge Market to Jubilee Gardens. Armstrong's Vintage Clothes on Raeburn Place is worth a rummage.

Tom Kitchin's Stockbridge gastropub. Slow-braised lamb shoulder, beef cheek with potato cake, the fish pie that locals go on about. Cosy tavern style, real ales on tap. Book ahead — it fills early.

A basement cocktail bar under a George Street office — find the unmarked door and descend the stairs. A short seasonal menu of mostly whisky-forward drinks. One of the World's 100 Best Bars for years running.