A Fez day in the Medina's 9,000 alleys

A Moroccan café in a restored medina house run by an Englishman who has been in Fez for two decades. Camel burger, fig-and-goat-cheese salad, mint tea on the rooftop. The medina sprawls below.

A 14th-century Islamic school with a courtyard of cedar carvings, stuccowork, and zellige tiles — the only Fez madrasa still in use for Friday prayers. Non-Muslims can enter the courtyard but not the prayer hall.

Lose yourself in the medina — nine thousand alleys, no cars, one of the largest intact medieval cities on earth. Hire a licensed guide at the Bab Bou Jeloud gate for about 200 dirhams; a half-day covers the key points without getting lost.

A restored Fez palace serving traditional Moroccan plates in a tiled courtyard. Lamb tagine with prunes and almonds, pigeon pastilla. The setting is the attraction — a three-hour lunch is not excessive here.

The 11th-century tannery — enormous stone vats of coloured dye worked by hand, visible from the terraces of the leather shops above. You'll be handed a sprig of mint at the door to hold to your nose. Polite haggling expected.

Founded 859 — one of the oldest continuously operating universities in the world. Non-Muslims cannot enter; walk the perimeter to see the green tile roofs and the surrounding madrasas that housed students for a millennium.

A family-run riad in the medina serving a six-course traditional Fez dinner in a tiled courtyard. Berber musicians after 21:00. Mandatory set menu; book ahead, especially in high season.