A Lisbon day from LX Factory to a Pharmacia dinner

A 19th-century textile complex turned creative quarter under the 25 de Abril bridge. Ler Devagar bookshop with an old printing press in the middle, Cafe do LX for a galão, small design stores. Sundays the courtyard crafts market runs from ten to seven.

Walk beneath the red suspension bridge spanning the Tejo — the one Salazar had copied from San Francisco's Golden Gate. The restored warehouses of the Doca de Alcântara have a long quayside boardwalk; joggers, dog walkers, sunlight on the water.

A glass-walled restaurant on a platform over the Tejo. Grilled fish is the move — ask what came in this morning. Lunch has better light than dinner; book a window table.

A small leafy square uphill from Bairro Alto, shaded by an enormous cedar more than a century old. Bookshops, concept stores (Embaixada in the old palace), small cafés around the perimeter.

A two-level viewpoint looking across the old city to the castle. A small kiosk sells a glass of wine; azulejo-tiled benches line the balustrade. Sit for twenty minutes as the light changes.

A restaurant inside the old Pharmacy Museum. Portuguese sharing plates, inventive cocktails served in test tubes, tables on the grassy slope overlooking the Tejo. The saffron risotto is the house dish. Book ahead.