A Marrakech day in the Palmeraie and a traditional hammam

A plant-filled Gueliz café that locals actually use for breakfast. Smashed avocado on sourdough, pressed juices, a real flat white. Sit on the terrace if the morning isn't too hot.

A forty-minute camel ride through the palm groves on the northern edge of the city. Twenty-metre palms, earthen tracks, Berber herders with teapots. About 250 dirhams for an hour; morning light is cooler and softer.

A modern museum in terracotta and terrazzo next to Jardin Majorelle. A rotating exhibition of Saint Laurent's sketches and 150 of his dresses. Ticket combined with Majorelle if you want both.

French-Moroccan lunch in a garden courtyard. Order the lamb tagine with prunes and almonds, a pastilla to start. The rosé is the local Domaine Volubilia, cold and dry.

A traditional hammam. The two-hour ritual — steam, black soap scrub, rose-argan oil massage — about 400 dirhams. Bring nothing; swimsuit provided. You'll feel like you've been disassembled and rebuilt.

A cultural café in a restored riad at the foot of the Kasbah. Camel burger, date-and-tahini milkshake, a spiced coffee. Storytelling sessions in Darija most evenings after dinner.

A restored riad turned hotel in the medina's edge. Dinner in the central courtyard around a candlelit pool, with Gnawa musicians after 21:00. Pigeon pastilla is the signature. Reservations essential.