A Mexico City day in Coyoacán and San Ángel

The neighbourhood market. Order a tostada de tinga (shredded chicken in chipotle-tomato sauce) at any of the stalls in the back. Walk the loop for huaraches and tlacoyos and an agua fresca of tamarind.

Frida Kahlo's cobalt-blue childhood home, now a museum of her paintings, photographs, and everyday objects. Pre-book online — walk-ups are turned away at the gate. The kitchen and her bed are what visitors remember.

A 39-hectare nursery-park open to the public. Joggers on the outer loop, squirrels running the canopy, a grove of ancient trees in the centre. Walk the main loop for twenty minutes.

A 17th-century colonial hacienda turned restaurant. Order the chiles en nogada (walnut sauce, in season August through September) and the pavo en mole. The stone patio is the better dining room.

Saturday-only craft market in the Plaza San Jacinto. Textiles, silver, Talavera ceramics, at fixed prices rather than the usual mercado haggle. Artists often selling their own work from the stalls.

The twin-house studio Juan O'Gorman designed for Rivera and Kahlo in 1931 — one pink, one blue, connected by a rooftop bridge. Twenty minutes inside covers the essential rooms.

A Roma Norte cocktail bar that sits on most world's-fifty-best lists. A short, seasonal menu; the Margarita al Pastor is the signature. Book a table or arrive at 19:00 for a stool at the bar.