A Munich day from the Marienplatz to the Augustiner-Keller
A Weisswurst breakfast at the Viktualienmarkt, the Glockenspiel at 11, the Residenz, a liter of beer at the Hofbräuhaus, an English Garden beer garden, the Eisbach surfers, and dinner at an 1812 chestnut-tree keller.
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Viktualienmarkt
Munich's open-air farmers' market since 1807. Breakfast of Weisswurst — the white Bavarian sausage served with a brezn and sweet mustard, traditionally never eaten after noon. A wheat beer alongside, even at nine, is not remarkable here.
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Marienplatz and Glockenspiel
The city's central square in front of the neo-Gothic New Town Hall. The Glockenspiel carillon performs at 11:00 and 12:00 — thirty-two life-sized figures reenact a 1568 royal wedding and a coopers' dance. Stand below, look up.
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Residenz Palace
The Wittelsbachs' royal palace, ten centuries of dynasty rooms. The Antiquarium — a 70-metre Renaissance vaulted hall — is the one room to see if your time is short. Two hours covers the palace properly.
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Hofbräuhaus
The 1589 royal brewery turned beer hall. Liter steins, brass band in the main hall at lunch, pork knuckle with bread dumplings and sauerkraut. Touristy now but the real thing, and the beer is worth showing up for.
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English Garden, Chinesischer Turm
One of Europe's largest urban parks. Walk to the Chinese Tower — a 25-metre wooden pagoda with a 7,000-seat beer garden underneath. Order an Augustiner Edelstoff helles and a roasted half chicken with potato salad.
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Eisbach surfers
A standing wave on a channel of the Isar at the south end of the English Garden, where Munich surfers queue to ride for five seconds each before falling in. Watch from the bridge above — fifteen minutes of it is plenty.
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Augustiner-Keller
An 1812 beer garden near the Hauptbahnhof. Five thousand seats outdoors under chestnut trees in summer. Order the Augustiner Edelstoff (the house lager) in a stone mug and a half-metre brezn to share. Germans come here to think.