A Porto day from the Douro to a port lodge

A 1906 bookshop with a carved wooden staircase said to have inspired J.K. Rowling during her Porto years. Small entrance fee, refundable against a book purchase. Twenty minutes inside — it's small but every square metre earns the photograph.

A 1916 railway station with 20,000 azulejo tiles covering the main hall, showing Portuguese historical scenes. Trains still run through the platforms behind. Free; ten to fifteen minutes of looking up.

A restored 1914 iron-and-glass market. Portuguese stalls selling salt cod, olives, cured meats, and cheeses. Stop at the bar in the middle for a bifana (braised pork sandwich) and a glass of vinho verde.

Walk down from São Bento through the hillside lanes to the Douro. The Ribeira quay is where the city meets the river — coloured houses stacked up the hillside, outdoor tables along the water, the Dom Luís I bridge arching south.

Cross the upper deck of the Dom Luís I bridge to the south bank. Vila Nova de Gaia is where all the port lodges age their wine. Taylor's does a tasting of three ports with a self-guided cellar tour. Book ahead in summer.

Take the vintage tram 1 from Ribeira west along the river to Foz, where the Douro meets the Atlantic. Walk the seafront promenade for thirty minutes as the light drops; locals running with dogs along the rocks.

José Avillez's Porto restaurant. Modern Portuguese plates — codfish bolinhos, black pork, octopus rice with coriander. A glass of Esporão from the Douro. Reservations essential.