New Orleans

Beignets at sunrise, a walking tour through French Quarter courtyards and iron balconies, a po'boy at a corner shop locals still use, a streetcar up St. Charles to the Garden District, and a jazz crawl down Frenchmen Street.

Coffee in Faubourg Marigny, the Backstreet Cultural Museum in Treme, a cemetery of above-ground tombs, Leah Chase's gumbo z'herbes, the Jazz Museum, Compère Lapin for dinner, and live jazz at a Bywater wine shop.