A New Orleans day from Treme to a Bywater wine bar

A small corner café two blocks off Frenchmen Street. Pour-over coffee, chicory blend, a croissant. Window tables; the neighbourhood's slow morning comes in and out.

A small museum of Mardi Gras Indians, social aid and pleasure clubs, jazz funerals in Treme — the neighbourhood that claims to be the birthplace of jazz. The curator walks you through for a modest donation.

The oldest New Orleans cemetery, 1789. Above-ground tombs, Marie Laveau's alleged grave. Guided tour only now, to control vandalism — book through Save Our Cemeteries. The tour is a good one.

Leah Chase's Creole institution since 1941, now run by her grandson. Gumbo z'herbes, shrimp Clemenceau, fried chicken. The dining rooms are hung with African American art Mrs Chase collected over sixty years.

Housed in the old U.S. Mint at the edge of the French Quarter. Louis Armstrong's cornet, the original Fats Domino piano, early recording equipment. Live afternoon performances in the performance hall.

Chef Nina Compton's Caribbean-New Orleans restaurant. Goat curry with sweet potato gnocchi, conch croquettes, the dirty rice arancini. The room is warm, the service confident. Book ahead.

A wine shop with a backyard of picnic tables and live jazz every night. Choose a bottle at the counter, a plate from the kitchen window, find a seat outside. Open late, casual, the neighbourhood's real hang.