Rome

Breakfast at the old slaughterhouse market, lunch at a trattoria carved into an amphorae hill, an afternoon in Trastevere's cobbled lanes, and a long dinner as the neighbourhood fills up with Romans eating out.

Morning under the Palatine before the queues form, the Colosseum at its quietest, a lunch in the old Jewish ghetto, the Pantheon in the afternoon, and a sunset from the Aventine keyhole view before dinner in Trastevere.

The Vatican Museums before the tour buses, the Sistine Chapel at its quietest, St. Peter's Basilica and the dome climb, lunch in Testaccio, the afternoon along the Tiber, and a late Trastevere trattoria.