A Rome day from Testaccio's market to Trastevere's tables

The city's last true neighbourhood food market. Breakfast of a trapizzino — pizza bianca stuffed with pollo alla cacciatora — and a cappuccino from the bar at the south corner.

The artificial hill of Testaccio, made from the broken amphorae of the Roman port trade. A park sits on top; wander the lanes around its base for octopus-ink street art on ex-warehouse walls.

Carved into the Monte dei Cocci hillside — stone walls with embedded amphora fragments still visible. Order the cacio e pepe, the coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), a glass of house red. Few tourists find it.

Cross the Ponte Sublicio into Trastevere. Start at Santa Cecilia's cloister; the 9th-century mosaic in the apse rewards a coin dropped in the light box. Open until 17:00.

Walk north through the lanes — vines over the cobbles, ivy on the walls, old signs for corner shops that have closed. Piazza Santa Maria is the neighbourhood's living room; the mosaic façade of the basilica glows at golden hour.

The island in the Tiber connected by Rome's oldest bridge, Ponte Fabricio (62 BC). A twenty-minute loop. A tiny gelato shop on the east side (Sorbetteria Alberto Pica) is the local tip.

An all-women-run kitchen making focacce and pastas you won't find elsewhere. Wait thirty minutes at the door if you don't have a reservation. The focaccia stuffed with mortadella is the signature. Natural wines by the glass.