A Tokyo day from Tsukiji sushi to Shibuya neon

The inner fish market moved to Toyosu in 2018 but the outer market is still full of sushi counters, knife shops, and dried bonito stalls. Breakfast at Sushi Dai or Daiwa — ninety-minute wait on the line outside, worth it every time.

A forest shrine in the middle of the city, reached through a hundred-thousand-tree canopy planted from donations in 1920. Walk through the torii, past the wall of sake barrels, to the main hall. Remove hats in the inner compound.

Three hundred and fifty metres of teenage Tokyo — crepes, rainbow cotton candy, Lolita fashion stalls. Walk through once; you won't need twice. Loop back via Cat Street to a quieter back-street vibe.

A tonkatsu specialist in a converted 1940s public bathhouse. Order the black pig set — thick pork cutlet, rice, miso soup, mountain of shredded cabbage. The counter seats are where you watch the chef fry.

Two stops south on the Hibiya Line. A narrow canal lined with cherry trees, independent boutiques, and ramen holes. In late March and April it's the best hanami in the city; any other season it's a good neighbourhood walk.

Arrive at dusk. The Scramble is the world's busiest pedestrian crossing — every two minutes two thousand people cross in all directions. Watch from the second floor of the Starbucks facing it, then cross it yourself at least twice.

A two-lane alley of ten-stool izakayas behind Shibuya Station. Walk the full length, pick whichever has English menus or a welcoming vibe. One beer, one plate, move on to the next.