4 curated days.
Sushi at dawn at the old fish market, a forest shrine hidden behind Harajuku, tonkatsu at a converted bathhouse, an hour in Shibuya's side streets, and the world's busiest crossing at its neon best.
A museum wing in the morning, a shrine in the park, a pre-war department store lunch, an hour among electronics-and-anime temples in Akihabara, and an izakaya dinner in the Kanda stone alleys.
Start in the quiet cat-filled alleys of Yanaka, cross through Ueno to a 150-year-old eel specialist, end the day under Senso-ji's lanterns with a beer and a skewer on Hoppy Street. The Tokyo most first-time visitors skip.
Vintage shopping where Tokyo students actually shop, a ramen lunch at a counter shop, fringe theatre in a neighbourhood that launched half of modern Japanese drama, and an izakaya dinner around a suburban station square.