A Tokyo day from Yanaka to Asakusa through the old Shitamachi

A 170-metre shotengai that locals still use for daily groceries. Arrive early, walk both sides slowly. The tofu shop on the north end has been making soymilk doughnuts since 1930 — one warm, from a paper bag, is breakfast.

Tokyo's most beautiful cemetery, laid out like a small city with a central avenue of cherry trees. The last shogun is buried here. Quiet, full of cats, open to everyone. Walk the main path from north to south for the best morning light.

Pre-dating Tokyo itself, with a thousand-gate vermillion tunnel that's smaller and far less crowded than the one in Kyoto. The azalea gardens in April are reason enough to come. Leave a coin, clap twice, bow.

A 150-year-old specialist in unagi — eel grilled over charcoal, brushed with sweet soy, served over rice in a lacquered box. Order the top-grade kabayaki don with the pickle plate and the clear soup. Book ahead if you can.

The restaurant supply district. A kilometre of shops selling kitchen knives, sushi rice tubs, lacquer trays, plastic food samples. Gifts you'll actually use. Kama-Asa on the main drag is where Tokyo chefs go for their knives.

Arrive at sunset — the lanterns come on and the afternoon crowd thins. Walk up Nakamise-dori from Kaminarimon, offer incense, a quick bow at the main hall, then circle around the back to the five-storey pagoda.

Two blocks of standing bars and open-front izakayas, five minutes west of Senso-ji. Pull up a stool, order a Hoppy (the beer substitute that gives the street its name) and a plate of motsuni stew. This is how old Tokyo ends a day.